AW26 00212026 - Instruments of Order

Description

"Instruments of Order" marks a deliberate pivot, stripping back narrative and character in favour of the fundamentals of garment construction, proportion, and material logic. Kiko called it "restricted variation": no prints, no jacquards, no fabric development, but rich in execution: Loro Piana wool, cashmere, virgin wool, mohair. Influenced by the mathematical systems of Dutch Benedictine architect Dom Hans van der Laan, the collection builds sequentially through variation and iteration, exploring a disciplined interplay of codes that are now engrained with Kiko Kostadinov – clean geometric lines, subtle slits, cinches, darts, and repeated motifs such as diagonal cuts and rhombus gussets. Silhouettes shift fluidly between fitted and voluminous, blurring categorical boundaries. Blousons with curved shoulders, tops hovering between pullovers and shirts, trousers verging on skirt-like forms. Details are minimised: no visible zippers, buttons concealed or matched to fabric, trims kept to an absolute essential so that material and cut remain paramount. A restrained palette of blacks, blues, creams, and greys is punctuated by controlled bursts of vermillion and sulphur, while striped knits and lightweight crinkled nylon introduce moments of expanded colour. Footwear follows the same internal logic, from refined Sargo evolutions to new slip-on variations and a Crocs collaboration emphasising architectural form over ornament. The show unfolded in a space punctuated by minimalist cardboard sculptures by Oscar Tuazon, their linear arrangements echoing the collection's rhythm of repetition and subtle variation. A return to first principles: clothing conceived through construction, the behaviour of fabric, and deeply considered proportion rather than extraneous concept or backstory. While SS26 was heavy on sourcing and materials, AW26 was a showcase of pure talent. Kiko saying everyone already knows he's the best pattern cutter, then blowing minds with the cuts and doing it on Loro Piana fabrics too. Stripped back to let the construction speak.

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