AW25 00192025 - Empire of Rain

Description

Set in a Parisian culinary school strewn with autumn leaves and paper, the show evoked a moody, ritualistic forest floor, a blend of cinematic drama and raw nature. Kiko drew heavily from Hungarian director Béla Tarr, especially his 1988 film Damnation, channeling bleak everyday realism and an “I cling to nothing, but everything clings to me” sensibility. Footwear included Asics collaborations and Hungarian army-inspired square-toed boots, merging sport and military heritage. Kon Trubkovich-inspired embroidery, triangular, surreal motifs referencing the Russian artist’s work, added subtle avant-garde disruption. Coin- and trinket-inspired insignia, scaled from 1920s Hungarian banknotes, were delicately embroidered on outerwear, lending a hidden layer of historic narrative. Contrast fabrics, herringbone, velvet, camouflage flocked wool, were collaged together, reinforcing a sense of necessity and adaptation. Vivid bursts of orange, cerulean, and yellow echoed Trubkovich’s color language, adding moments of visual tension amidst the sombre tones.

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